I go to the fabric store and see many types of white fabric. What is best?

Here are some tips to use in making fabric selection.

Whenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that means rolled on a tube. If the fabric you want only comes double and rolled on a bolt, make sure the crease will iron out easily.

Natural fibers will sew and fit like no other fiber. Silk is my
favorite. They mold to the body to help with that perfect fit. Silk is not always affordable so a good quality polyester is a nice alternative.

Buy a polyester not an acetate. In my opinion, there is no comparison between poly satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. or acetate satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. Years ago acetate was very popular especially with gown manufacturers because it is cheap. Today very few gown manufacturers still use it but the major fabric chains still continue to carry it heavily.

Here are a few reasons why I would never spend the time to make a quality gown with a cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare to sew on. If you get machine oil or anything on the fabric, it will have to be dry-cleaned. It cannot be spotted without leaving a watermark. It does not press well and if pressed wrong, the crease is permanent. It does not mold to the body and you will never get a wrinkle free fit. It yellows quickly with age and once dry-cleaned, it loses any body it many have had. (Are you getting the idea that I don’t like acetate?) I consider it a disposable fabric. Many people buy it because it is cheap but don’t let price alone fool you. Make sure if you are price shopping that you are comparing apples with apples. Just because both fabrics are a delustered satin does not mean they are the same. Check fiber content and avoid acetate.

Now that I have told you not to use an acetate, let me say there are a few exceptions. Never buy any fabric that is 100% acetate but some acetate blends such as rayon/acetate blends and brocades are the general exception.

What should I use for lining and do I need to line and underline a dress?

Many brides do not understand the importance of lining and underlining a gown. It is essential that every gown be fully lined in the bodice.
Depending on the weight of your fabric, you may even want to fully line the sleeves and skirt. Linings do not have to be expensive. I line 99% of my garments with a basic 100% polyester lining such as pongee or coupe de ville which costs about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk can be lined with this to help keep the cost down. Be sure to never use acetate lining as it will alter the fit and drape of your gown fabric.

Lining can greatly alter the color of a garment so make sure you layer the fabrics you plan to use to see the finished color before purchasing. Lining can be a great asset to help you alter your color slightly, however. I have often lined ivory garments with white to keep the ivory lighter or winter white silk with a darker ivory lining to achieve a little more color. You can even achieve a very subtle pink or peach by lining ivory silk with a pink lining. If you do plan to change your dress color with lining, however, please make sure you line every piece from bodice, sleeves, and skirt, to bows and roses or they will not match. Lining can affect the color of bridesmaid’s dresses as well.
In addition to lining your dress, a real 'couture' dress is always underlined to help achieve that perfect fit. Underlining is something you find in hand tailored garments or in 'couture' dresses, especially fitted garments. It is not common in the majority of sewing we do today, but I feel it makes a huge difference in the finished product.
Many guidesheets either don’t mention underlining or print it as 'optional'. If I had my way, it would be changed to say 'extremely important'. The fit is never the same on a garment without underlining. The underlining acts as a stabilizer. It helps everything lay more smoothly and fit better.

Throughout the years I have experimented with many fabrics to see which I thought created the best overall results. My favorite underlining fabric would have to be 100% cotton organdy for fabrics with body and 100% silk organza for any drapy fabric. Natural fibers are a must for underlining. A synthetic fiber would defeat the whole purpose of underlining. Cotton organdy is very stiff but when ironed it softens considerably and molds to the body so well. The underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the fabric and basted to each bodice piece first. You must make sure the two pieces are basted as one and are perfectly smooth. Then pretend they are one piece. I always underline a short sleeve as well as the bodice.

Whenever possible underline with the same color as your gown. If you can only find white underlining for an ivory dress, cut an extra layer of lining and baste it to the bodice before underlining so the finished color of your garment is not affected.


some info about fabrics......knowledge is key.